Emma began and finished her journey in Toronto where she was born, spending time first with her sister where together they did Toronto and Niagara Falls. She then headed West solo to Manitoulin Island, Northern Ontario, followed by long train rides taking days through forests, lakes, plains and mountains to Edmonton, Alberta, then Vancouver and Vancouver Island. Family adventures, meeting the land, indigenous culture and big trees… Emma is uploading the WhatsApp blog she wrote for family and friends below as she goes… Please keep returning here to catch the unfolding story.
Tues 7 May 2024 Hello everyone! So here begins the place of adventure-sharing chat. I arrived in Toronto nearly a week ago. I’m spending the first couple of weeks in the Toronto area with my sister Sarah, where we were both born, both long resident in UK.
She is having an adventure of her own as an adoptee, meeting her recently discovered birth father and his family. I’m very happy to be included in this, it’s truly wonderful and exciting. 💕😊
On our first day we went to the Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO) and saw some cool art… Book themed stuff by Sarindar Dhaliwal. Suits me as a book lover and library worker!
Sarah and I both loved this sofa made of Sesame Street gonks – the TV of our shared infancy – made entirely out of multiple Cookie Monsters, Big Birds and Ernie and Berts. Where can we buy one please..?
Lots of snowy Canadian landscape art AGO Canadian Collection. Here ‘Cranberry Lake, Dead Trees’ by Franklin Carmichael and ‘House in the Ward 1917’ by Lawren Harris, two of the Group of Seven.
On the way home I found the local library of course.
In the evening Sarah and I watched the Toronto Maple Leafs ice hockey game with her newly discovered sister – also weirdly called Sarah! – and her partner Kevin. The Leafs won that game 🥳. But sadly we lost the next round… Only mention this quietly to Torontonians… (Kevin spent most of the game watching nervously through his fingers from the garden…)
At the weekend we went to Niagara Falls! Coz you kinda have to…
Here we also found the most amazing ‘real thing’ diner – pancakes, sundaes and poutines (look it up – Canadian chips, cheese n gravy) – to die for.
We met up with Anne and Mick, dear friends from over the border, Akron, Ohio, USA. Anne’s parents and mine were close friends back in the day, we all spent time together as young children in Toronto and Ohio… Anne likes to introduce me to people by saying ‘We were in diapers together…’ 😄
On Sunday we returned to Toronto and met up with Sarah’s father Graham. We went a lovely excursion on the ferry to Toronto Island on the lake.
The distinctive Toronto skyline with CN Tower as seen from the Island.
Not Halifax Calderdale… That would be even further away…
The log flume Sarah joyfully remembers from childhood, being a year or so older than me – which I do not, being only 4 when we were last there. It’s still there, see how happy Sarah is!
And finally for today, the view from our accommodation window and the black squirrel eating a tortilla chip I spotted from the balcony. That’s the second one I’ve seen him eating the last couple of days… I don’t think it’s doing him much good… Can you see the patchy fur on his back? …He needs some healthy nuts and seeds!
So that’s you all caught up. I will try to post little and more often from now on. Lots of love Emma xxx
Weds 8 May 2024 For those of you who don’t know, I was born in Toronto with my siblings. My Brit parents brought us to the UK when we were quite little, though Sarah and I have visited Canada a little since. So this is a bit of a re-visit for both of us.
This feeds into my understanding of spirit and nature, much informed by North American indigenous teachings. (I hope I am not too guilty of cultural appropriation though expect a lot of us white folks are.) It was excellent to be at such a place and hear about the amazing work people are doing to recover from centuries of loss and abuse.
My favourite T-shirt in the shop showed an old photograph of a group of indigenous men holding rifles with the slogan ‘Homeland security – Fighting terrorism since 1492.’
I found another library too. 😊📚
Today I am on Danforth Avenue shopping for camping gear for the next leg of my journey, heading to North Ontario this weekend. I’m enjoying the charity shop (thrift store), local shop and cafe vibe while making my way to Canadian Tire – a big chain store a bit like Wilkos that sells EVERYTHING – including the bargain camping gear I dream of. Wish me luck.😊🏕🤞🏼
Sun 12 May 2024 Today this is the view from my tent. Ahhh….
I am now on Manitoulin Island on Lake Huron in North Ontario, which I got to via a drive from Toronto and a ferry from Tobermory. A beautiful crossing approaching sunset.
Yesterday it rained all day – not much fun in a tent. So I found shelter – where else – at the library! Quiet and single-staffed on a Saturday, free shelter, loo, local info, wifi and a power up for my devices. 😊 What we libraries do.
I also went to a Mother’s Day Market at Debajehmujig Centre where I purchased things from groovy stalls and ate a piece of fine cherry pie.
To backtrack a little, on my last day in Toronto I visited Todmorden Mills – had to– part of the city’s industrial history – named by the sons and daughters of our own Todmorden (where I live in Calderdale) – the Eastwoods and Helliwells.
I was… aggrieved?… miffed?… slightly disappointed not to find this information anywhere mentioned on the information boards! But didn’t make too much of a fuss. 😂
Though close to a highway, Todmorden Mills is a pretty place surrounded by a park. Here I saw my first raccoon – an everyday pest to many – an exotic cutie to me.
Todmorden, Toronto is also a place where they write ‘kindness’ on the walls. ❤️
For our last evening we went to downtown Toronto, the famous Yonge Street and the queer part of town.
If you continue north up Yonge Street here another 14 miles you will come to Richmond Hill where me and my sibs spent our early years.
While wandering downtown we came across Women’s College Hospital – a national institution that specialises in women’s health and training women as doctors and nurses. Turns out both Graham and I were born here! Neither of us could remember what ward. 😂 What a fabulous place to start life.
The scariest thing so far on this journey was picking up the hire car and navigating the crazy highways driving out of Toronto to Manitoulin Island where I am now. But I managed it! And am now feeling okay behind the wheel. And why not? Look at the swanky vehicle they gave me! Fancier than anything I have ever driven before! 😂 Thinks for itself and does the job. 👍🏼
Sarah and I parted ways at Toronto. She has gone onto Ottawa where Graham lives to spend more time with him and his family. And this is now the beginning of my independent journey. Being on Manitoulin Island is a welcome change from the city and now it’s stopped raining I’m off for walks and beauty here. Lots of love xx
Tues 14 May 2024 Hello from campsite cat. A very affectionate girl. Don’t tell my Elvin 😻
I’ve spent the last couple of days exploring Manitoulin Island. The beautiful Bridal Veil Falls and the river below it…
It’s been really nice to be amongst trees and near water, reminding me of the landscape of home where I am in the Upper Calder Valley.
And even on a dull day, got some amazing views of the Island from the escarpment cliff – seeing several of its many lakes with their own islands – on a island on a lake…
Yesterday I went to the Ojibwe Cultural Foundation. I lucked out, arriving in time for the community lunch and Ojibwe language session where I was made very welcome. I picked up a couple of phrases – Miigwich – thank you kindly.
Everyone was very welcoming and I loved the work of this artist decorating the Healing Lodge – Leland Bell. These three pieces represent three of the Seven Grandfather teachings: Love, Bravery and Honesty.
I’m learning a lot. There was a powerful exhibition about the Residential School system. The system was operated by the Canadian government (and a similar one in USA) for over 100 years – forcibly removing indigenous children from their families, placing them in schools which forbade their languages and where many experienced brutality and trauma. Manitoulin Island children were taken to schools located in the town of Spanish, Ontario from 1910-1958. Remembrance and Reflection
Today I am going to visit another indigenous site – a guided tour atWikwemikong Unceded Territory– very much looking forward to it. Then I’ll be getting my act together for another day’s travelling tomorrow – driving to Sudbury where I get the train to Edmonton, Alberta – a 2 day train ride! I’m having fun. Hope all is good with you. Love Emma xx
Big journey from Sudbury, Ontario to Edmonton, Alberta – 48 hours ish.The view from the window thus far…
Sunset last night… It is all wilderness here, lakes and trees, the occasional cabin or small town.
Yesterday I spent the day waiting for the train at Sudbury – where else? – at the library. Please can we have a dog sat on top of our book shelves, please please please?!
The tiny train stop I got on at Sudbury Junction. One train a day, unmanned expect for the hour or 2 either side of arrival and departure, right on the edge of town.
And this is where I am now – a stop at Armstrong, Ontario. Making the most of the phone signal, not much in between these long stretches of wilderness! More soon, when I can, we’ll be on the move again soon. The time distance is growing between me and home too!
Lots of love xxx
Fri 17 May 2024
Good morning! Third day on the train… I know, I promise I’ll have a wash and change of clothes when I get to Edmonton tomorrow…
Yesterday was a duller day, but many many miles of relatively untouched wilderness of Northern Ontario. Lakes, trees…
Signs of human life along the way including sadly litter.
I got off the train at Sioux Lookout for a stretch of legs – only then realised how long it was.
Lovely end of day yesterday, as the bush started to come to an end, and the land begin to empty of trees…
During the night we went through the city of Winnipeg and the province of Manitoba. Here the land is much bleaker, or emptier of trees at least. Big agricultural fields, more roads and farms. More phone signal (for now at least) and a sense of being out of the wilderness. Don’t think this is true plains territory yet though.
Where cars go to die..? (TBF there are random fields covered in dead cars like this all over the world…)
As I’ve sat here the last 2 days I’ve been catching up on my journal, nearly finished my book and listened to several excellent Canadian podcasts.
I’ve travelled 1277 miles since boarding the train at Sudbury and crossed 2 time zones. More reading, napping and snacking for me today as I watch the world go by. Lots of love xxx
Sun 19 May 2024
After a train journey of 50+ hours and around 1800 miles, I am now in Edmonton, Alberta.
Was I glad to see this when I got to the Air BnB at gone 5am Saturday morning! A most comfy spot to land for a few days recuperation after days on the train.
Also photographic artists Aïda Muluneh and Meryl McMaster with their Ebb and Flow exhibition.
And more snowy tree art by Canadian artistTom Thompson.
There were some bouncy pink things in the square outside which were fun too.
I bumped into the ice hockey crowd again, this time the Edmonton Oilers in orange who were playing fellow Canadians Vancouver this round (this competition is dominated by the Americans) – and won! Much whooping and why not.
On the bus back to the Air BnB I noticed this road name – don’t know if you can see it – ‘Stony Plain Road’ – Maybe once but not anymore!
I have a few more days in Edmonton before I’m back on the train for the 31+ hour train ride through the Rocky Mountains to Vancouver. (Can’t wait.)
Till then it’s nice to be in a cosy Air BnB with shower and wifi after more than a week camping or on the train, as well as enjoying the contrasts of wild and urban / conventional comforts.
Mon 20 May 2024
Good morning folks. Yesterday I went on a fantastic walking tour of the river valley at Edmonton with Keith of Talking Rock Tours, taking in the geology, indigenous and settler history and of course trees! Highly recommend.
We started on the south side of the North Saskatchewan River, looking north here. On the left, the most recently built bridge spanning the river, on the right a now abandoned power station. In the middle, on that barely visible green space, the site of the ancient burial ground we were heading for.
Next we went to a memorial garden opened in 2023, Kihciy Maskikiy / Aakaakmotaani. Part of more recent work Canada is trying to do of truth and reconciliation regarding its indigenous people especially the legacy of the Residential Schools system.
I haven’t walked across Canada – the train took long enough! – but you can on theTrans Canada Trail.
A permanent flame marks Canada’s centenery in 1967, the year I was born. Canada was constituted and named in 1867, a very short period of time, all things considered. This centenary and settler history gets a lot more headline memorials than anything else, the marking and memorialising of indigenous sites being a more recent phenomena with less status sites in my humble opinion.
The footbridge back across the river, north to south. Climate activism gets everywhere!
What time looks like, my guide Keith, a geologist, explained it. Geological layers cut by the river going back to the Ice Age. Homes for swallows in the bank, brickwork rubble at the top – the ruins of first settler activity on this river bank. Topped by today’s trees, roots and all. 🌳🌳🌳
What beavers do! Impressive.
And finally the Indigenous Art Park. Again, could have been better signposted but some beautiful and interesting pieces.
And the view of the city and river at the end of the tour. I was wearing an honorary Metis sash for the day.
So another exciting day yesterday. Today is a public holiday in Canada. I will spent it and tomorrow preparing for my next journey, back on the train late Tuesday heading west again to the end of the line at Vancouver.
Also enjoying a comfy home at the Air BnB, Canadian TV (especially CBC Gem) and cooking me own dinners! Lots of love xx
The journey continues… Emma is uploading more of the adventure as she goes. Do keep returning here to catch more of May – and click here for the next instalment of June.
If you enjoy this you might also be interested in the travel blog Emma wrote on a trip she made in 2010 following her father’s footsteps. (She subsequently turned this into her first show Beyond Dreams of Aberystwyth plus the Online Book you can read here).
